The lever has a screw on it so you can tighten it into the run position. The compression on these engines is such, that you cannot turn it past compression by hand without the aid of this lever. and then you move it to the left for it to start, and the inertia of the flywheels will carry the engine past top dead center and it will start. On the left is the compression release lever, which basicly just holds the exhaust valve open while you get it spinning. Pictured above are the exposed tappets and pushrods. I believe its probably overkill for the power Im running through it. I used a microgroove V belt, 91" long from Gates rubber.
I only used this WinCo because I allready had it. sells what I believe are probably a very superior 5KW (And larger) generator heads HERE. The alternator is an old WinCo 3600 rpm 5KW head I've had around for a couple years. Im looking for an old cast iron floor radiator, so that I can heat my shop to some degree with it. probably consuming about an average of 1.5 KW from the alternator. So far I've run it about 10 hours straight running my shop. For a water tank I used a 25 gallon air compressor tank - this cools it allright I think. A concrete pad is probably in the future, although for now - with the water tank and the alternator on the same base, it keeps pretty still and doesnt move around. I built a very heavy base for it from I beam and U channel. Time will tell how difficult she is to start in the cold. In my opinion this is the way to go if you want a non-portable generator that you can live with. At 650 rpm, it's quite slow and peaceful to listen to. I'm thrilled about it - its a magnificent machine and it runs like a charm. and I've yet to check the timing of the injection pump, but it does seem to run well. so careful cleaning was required and hopefully I did a good enough job! Of course the valves were badly adjusted. This would probably destroy the bearings and the bore in pretty short order. On careful inspection I found a couple pockets of casting sand in the sump. You'd never be able to make, and sell a product like this within the US. The parts of the flywheels that were facing down got no paint at all! No paint on the gas tank under the straps that hold it on. Basicly, they bolted it down to the crate in which it's to ship, and sprayed the heck out of it. The castings are very primitive - lots of "filler" is used throughout. this "Listeroid" is quite badly finished.
I have a small collection of antique American gas engines, which are similar in style, size and weight. I read before buying this and was pretty well prepared for what I was getting into. This brand 'Fuking' features a sleeved cylender, huge tapered rollers on the main bearings - it's generally hugely overbuilt and *very* robust. The lister SC design was (I believe) the first ever "cold start" diesel engine, which would startup from compression alone, without the aid of a glowplug, hot bulb, or other heating system. The weigh about 750 pounds, they are rated 6hp 650 rpm. These are available brand new (checkout ), they are made in India.
These engines are pretty much exact knockoffs of the Lister CS design, which was manufactured in England from 1930 - 1987. Pictured above is one shot of the generator I made up.
Lister diesel generator for sale craigslist full#
George is a heck of a nice fellow and his site is chuck full of excellent advice and information. finally I gave in and ordered one up from George at. I've been hearing, reading about, and drooling over these engines now for a couple years. This page is a brief one about my new Fuking diesel engine and the generator set I made up with it. Diesel generator set made from a Winco 5KW head and a new Indian 'FuKing' Lister clone